36 Hours in Ho Chi Minh City

Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.

Mama Mia!

For deli fans like me the thought of twenty five types of salami, ham and pâté equals serious salivation. Add to this a whole ream of cheeses, including delicious taleggio and pecorino, grilled artichokes, broad bean salads and gently fried dover sole and you've got an elbow-jabbing, taxi-chasing, must-see attraction on your hands.

Il Bel Paese (I visited the Caine Road branch, but will be hurrying to Wanchai and Happy Valley as soon as I've finished scoffing my current batch of San Daniele) is one such Aladdin's Cave of deli delights. They've got shelves stacked with wine, olive oil (and I mean the good stuff), balsamic vinegar, pasta, tapenade, pesto, lentils, butter beans, chickpeas, capers, porcini mushrooms, truffles, peppers and more delicious Italian treats than I've seen since I set foot in Hong Kong. There's a fresh fruit and veg counter and, should you so desire, Florentine ceramics you can pick up too. The best part is that it's all a lot cheaper than the likes of CitySuper, Great and Olivers. Hooray!

They also prepare food to eat-in or takeaway. On the menu are salads such as Caesar ($32) and Tuscany bean with tuna ($28), cheese platters (from $72), cold cut platters (from $65), pasta dishes (from $48 - $58), fish ($52), meatballs ($52), sandwiches (from $30) - and we're talking the fiocaccia and ciabatta kind - and puddings (from $29). They can also cater if you're planning a party. The smells from the kitchen were delicious and I'm sure the food would do Mama proud.

Happy Valley: 23 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2868 2818
Mid-Levels: G/F, No.85 Caine Road, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2549 8893
Wanchai: G/F, No.25 Queen's Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2804 2992

It's a wrap

It can be tough to find a decent piece of wrapping paper in this city, but I stumbled upon a treasure trove this morning in the most unlikely of places.

I was buying envelopes (of all the exciting things) at the Yat Cheong Paper Co. on Lyndhurst Terrace when I spied lots of pretty handmade wrapping paper on display. Choose from paper studded with dried flowers, deep blue paper with marbled streaks, greens, pinks and lots lots more. Now I just need something gorgeous to wrap up...

Yat Cheong Paper Co - G/F, 26 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2815 8466.

Smelling sweet and looking fresh at Tiare

The Tiare, a type of Gardenia, is native to Polynesia where young women tuck the flowers behind their ears to show whether they’re on the look out for Mr. Right or not. The white, star-shaped flower is credited with curing a number of ailments, including migraines, and thanks to its sweet, heady fragrance does a pretty good job of covering up the less delicious scents associated with living in a hot and humid climate.

I found a Tiare on Staunton Street. It was a prize example of this pretty genus of flower, and the perfect cure for many frustrating hours spent tramping the malls of Hong Kong looking for something decent to wear. Shopping in Hong Kong isn’t easy unless a) you’re as petite as the Chinese, b) you have a small fortune to spend on designer labels or c) you don’t mind ending up in the same thing as everyone else from Mango, Zara, French Connection or H&M.

Tiare Boutique in Soho is a breath of sweet fresh air that does its namesake proud. Stocked with both established and up-and-coming LA brands the shop offers Western girls on an average budget perfectly selected, stylish clothes that can be worn both at work and play. US clothes means US sizing, and it came as a very pleasant surprise to finally be zipping up into a small again!

Owned by Kathleen Sweeney, a Hong Kong born Californian who’s returned to her roots, and managed by her best-friend and fellow California girl the shop is light and spacious with a refreshingly relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Shoppers can roam the rails in peace without an irritating assistant following half a pace behind, as is so often the case in this city. Dressing rooms are large and even include a pair of stilettos to try the gorgeous dresses, skirts and jeans on with. Make sure you come out of the changing room to admire your reflection though as the mirrors inside make you look deceptively slim.

Tiare’s collection typically includes dresses and t-shirts from Velvet (their bestsellers apparently), Raven Denim (I loved the selection of skinny jeans), Michael Stars tees, clothes by Indo-Chinese inspired brand Da-Nang, dresses by Alan Schwartz for ABS and the new luxury line, Graham & Spencer, from Velvet designers Jenny Graham and Toni Spencer. Accessories junkies can further sate their appetite for all things Californian with a spot-on selection of chunky belts, sexy-but-cute underwear and semi-precious jewellery from Vietnamese-born, US-based designer Thoi Vo.

The collection at Tiare is constantly updated and refreshed and the shop staff are a real help if you’re looking for something special: they know about everything that’s arriving well in advance and I’ve already got my sights set on a slinky deep plum number by Graham and Spencer. Ask to be added to the mailing list too so you can be kept up-to-date about what’s coming in, special events and sales.

I’ve saved best part about Tiare until last… Every girl out for a retail fix can rest easy, the boutique stocks just one of each size in every style throughout their collection. At long last they’ll be no more turning up for drinks and dinner to be greeted with ten identikits looking better in your outfit than you; retail migraine officially relieved.

Tiare Boutique, Ground Floor, 53 Staunton Street, SoHo, Central, Hong Kong
t. +852 2540 3380 f. +852 2540 3382 e. info@tiareboutique.com
Opening hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 12pm – 10pm; Sunday, 12pm – 6pm; closed on Mondays.