36 Hours in Ho Chi Minh City

Rip up your road safety rulebook, get ready to step into on-coming traffic and prepare for a LOT of ding for your dong, we’re off to Ho Chi Minh City.

Here’s the lowdown on a 36 hour, whistle stop tour of old Saigon:

FRIDAY

6pm, The New World Hotel: not the most glam of destinations, but the city’s first 5* hotel. Decent sized rooms, good bathrooms and a comfy bed. 500m away from tourist-ridden Ben Thanh Market.

7pm, Club Camargue: French food and great wine on a palm-fringed, candle-lit terrace. From smoked salmon to lamb shanks with artichokes to nutella crème brûlée, everything was delicious. $50 for two people, 3 courses plus wine. 16 Cao Ba Quat, 824 3148. Dinner only.

9:30pm, Vasco’s bar: Live music and pool tables in the courtyard directly below Club Camargue. What could be more convenient?! Watch out though, the whole operation is moving soon. As above.

11pm, Q Bar: Underneath the Municipal Theatre is slick Q Bar. A bit too cool for school, but fun to have drinks on Lam Son Square and soak up colonial architecture at the same time. 7 Lam Son Sq, 823 7699.

SATURDAY

9am, War Remnants Museum: Not for the faint-hearted. Graphic photographs, war memorabilia and malformed foetuses; a poignant insight into the horrors of Vietnam’s wars with the French and Americans.

10:15am, Reunification Palace: One look at this white elephant was enough to put me off touring its insides. Apparently there’s lots of interesting period kitsch and propaganda there however.

11am, Hôtel de Ville: A stroll past and gaze up at the fairytale, wedding-cake style old town hall. Now home to The People’s Committee. A stone’s throw from the Ho Chi Minh City Museum if you’ve got time to explore the city’s history.

11:10am, L’Apothiquaire: Oh la la! Homemade rubs and scrubs going for a song at this aromatherapy spa. Handmade products from Bordeaux at prices the French can only dream of - $4.50 for a lemongrass-scented salt scrub. Merci beaucoup. 63 Le Thanh Ton, 822 1218.

11:30, Nga: Lovely lacquer. Right next door to L’Apothiquaire.

11:40, Notre Dame Cathedral: A red bricked beauty in the middle of the city. Doesn't look a thing like its Parisian cousin, but who cares. If you're here on a Sunday, and so inclined, there's mass in English. If you're there don't miss the Post Office next door.

11:35 – 12:30, Dong Khoi: This is where the French used to strut their stuff and it’s easy to see why. Still home to chic boutiques and international designer labels. Very easy to while away an hour deciding whether that lacquer bowl or those buffalo horn salad servers would actually look good at home.

12:45, Temple Club: Fantastic Vietnamese food in this retro indo-chine salon. No MSG, fresh Pho soups and amazing spring rolls (amongst countless other temptations). Exposed brickwork, latticed wooden archways, Vietnamese lamps, original tiles and best of all, if you like some of their furniture, you can make them an offer to buy it. Would be a great place for dinner too. $25 for two people, 2 courses and soft drinks. 29 Ton That Thiep, 829 9244.

1:45 – 2:15, Ton That Thiep: Some great shops on this more off-the-beaten-track road. Try Gaya (#30) for homeware, linen, fashion and furniture, but get your credit card out because it doesn’t come cheap. Appeal (#41 and #33) has great eggshell lacquerware, from photo frames to floor lamps.

2:45pm, Ben Thanh Market: Hold onto your wallet, this is pickpocket heaven. If you can handle the throngs this is a good place to pick up a bargain. Traditional Vietnamese lanterns, ceramics and the backpacker must-have, Tiger Beer t-shirts. Towards the back is the wet market if you can’t hack the hassle.

3:15pm, pool time: need a nap? So did I. Ho Chi Minh is 30 degrees in Feb so why not soak up some sun?

5pm, Emperor Jade Pagoda: Incensed-filled Cantonese-built temple. Touted as the most interesting in town. If you’ve seen a lot of temples before and are tight for time I wouldn’t make the 30 min journey. There’s a nice temple garden though, which offers a welcome respite from the frenetic city.

7pm, Dong Du: Just off Dong Khoi is this quieter, bar and restaurant filled street. We stopped for drinks at Qing, a wine bar with Asian tapas, and were serenaded by dragon dancers gearing up for the Tết festival.

7:40pm, Thann and Harnn: Walking to dinner can be so distracting, especially when another amazing spa shop crops up. Scented candles and fragrant lotions in this little Aladdin’s cave. Jo Malone, eat your heart out. 23 Dong Du, 827 2008.

8pm, Nam Kha: Allegedly one of the city’s best Vietnamese restaurants, but actually where Donatella Versace met Laura Ashley and it all went hideously wrong. Perhaps the food is fantastic, but I wasn’t going to sit by the reflection pool to find out.

8:30pm, The Refinery: An oasis of simplicity and deliciousness in a courtyard near the Hôtel de Ville. Arriving at this French-owned restaurant is like stumbling into a secret garden; illuminated by candles and fairylights the restaurant sits on the ground floor of a yellow colonial house with a terracotta roof and wooden eaves. With a menu that would make Provence proud and a wine list to match, this is a great place to come for a glimpse of how the city must have been when the French were still in town. It was so hard to leave that we didn’t until we had to, sipping red wine and watching girls in traditional ao dais walk past. Around $60 for two people, 3 courses and (lots of) wine. 74/7C Hai Ba Trung, 823 0509.

Pop Bites Rocks

I don't know about you, but sometimes I'd rather stay at my desk that deal with Queen's Road, Great or The Landmark at lunchtime. Where do all those people come from and how to they magically disappear at the stroke of 1:30?

Well, I've discovered a lunchtime nirvana. Buzzing yet relaxed, cheap yet delicious, cool yet unpretentious. Go to Pop Bites. I had a big salad and soup for just $55. Cheaper than 360 and you're guaranteed to get a seat. Brilliant.

Pop Bites
Upper Ground Floor
3 - 5 Old Bailey Street
Soho
+852 2525 4141

“An impressive beast”

On Friday I caught up with CNN anchor and business travel guru, Richard Quest, during the Hong Kong stop of his Asia tour. Billed as “a voice of authority” on the Airbus A380 I was eager to get all the nitty gritty on this behemoth of the skies.

You’ve probably seen the news about Singapore Airlines grounding the hopes of amorous airborne couples by now: no sex on board the A380 please, we’re Singaporean etc. Well, Richard Quest, who flew on SQ’s maiden A380 voyage has a couple tips for mile high club wannabes and I'm going to share them with you here:

Tip 1: Be very careful in the first class suites
They aren’t completely sealed and have no sound proofing. The diminutive Singaporean air hostesses can’t see over the top of the privacy screens, but the airline’s taller passengers can. So, please, do everyone on board a favour and keep the cord on those first class pyjamas firmly tied.

Tip 2: Business class is where it’s at
If you’re a determined in-flight fumbler there is, according to Mr. Quest, a bathroom in the front of the business class cabin (left-hand side) where there’s enough room for “a veritable orgy”. Amorous couples should head there instead and save a few thousand dollars in the process.

So there you have it, quest over.

I (quite) like Lucy's

I’d heard a lot of good things about Lucy’s in Stanley: delicious food, great atmosphere, creative menu etc etc, so I decided to check it out last night.
They’ve gone for a Tuscan theme decoration wise which, in my humble opinion, doesn’t work; the place is in danger of looking like JD Weatherspoons meets the Home & Away set. Bad lighting, even worse wall stenciling and a tacky palm tree to round the whole look off. I was feeling slightly nauseous when the waiter handed me the menu, but once glance at that was more then enough to convince me to stay.

The menu is a great size, you choose from five or six starters and main courses and there’s a separate pudding list. You’re not overwhelmed by choices so the simple, well thought out food really stands out (which is lucky given the decoration scheme). Starters include a deliciously fresh mozzarella, courgette, almond and grape salad with a fig tapenade ($90) and char-grilled squid and white bean bruschetta ($85). There was a tomato and thyme braised lamb shank on the main course menu ($200), along with falafel with tomato salad and pita ($170) and seabass with spicy chickpeas, aubergine and pomegranate couscous ($210), which I strongly recommend.

Feeling very full we still pushed on to the puddings; I went for a fantastic rhubarb and raspberry crumble and my friend opted for a pecan and ginger tart. Both were excellent. They also have two and three course set menus at $240 and $280.

I feel a bit sorry for the girls who get taken there for cosy dinners à deux. Although Lucy’s offers delicious food and wine it isn’t exactly the romantic dinner date destination I’d imagined. Well, perhaps if you’re Alf and Alsa and living happily in Summer Bay, but this is Hong Kong and there are hundreds of romantic hotspots to choose from. For a girly dinner or a good food fix I’d go back, but I won’t be angling for a hot date there any time soon.

Lucy's - G/F, 64 Stanley Main Street, Stanley. Tel: +852 2813 9055. Look for the side street to the right of Deli France, the restaurant is up there.

Mama Mia!

For deli fans like me the thought of twenty five types of salami, ham and pâté equals serious salivation. Add to this a whole ream of cheeses, including delicious taleggio and pecorino, grilled artichokes, broad bean salads and gently fried dover sole and you've got an elbow-jabbing, taxi-chasing, must-see attraction on your hands.

Il Bel Paese (I visited the Caine Road branch, but will be hurrying to Wanchai and Happy Valley as soon as I've finished scoffing my current batch of San Daniele) is one such Aladdin's Cave of deli delights. They've got shelves stacked with wine, olive oil (and I mean the good stuff), balsamic vinegar, pasta, tapenade, pesto, lentils, butter beans, chickpeas, capers, porcini mushrooms, truffles, peppers and more delicious Italian treats than I've seen since I set foot in Hong Kong. There's a fresh fruit and veg counter and, should you so desire, Florentine ceramics you can pick up too. The best part is that it's all a lot cheaper than the likes of CitySuper, Great and Olivers. Hooray!

They also prepare food to eat-in or takeaway. On the menu are salads such as Caesar ($32) and Tuscany bean with tuna ($28), cheese platters (from $72), cold cut platters (from $65), pasta dishes (from $48 - $58), fish ($52), meatballs ($52), sandwiches (from $30) - and we're talking the fiocaccia and ciabatta kind - and puddings (from $29). They can also cater if you're planning a party. The smells from the kitchen were delicious and I'm sure the food would do Mama proud.

Happy Valley: 23 Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2868 2818
Mid-Levels: G/F, No.85 Caine Road, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2549 8893
Wanchai: G/F, No.25 Queen's Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2804 2992

All hail Aqua Luna

Fancy living the life of a Tai Pan or sipping on a sundowner like a colonial conquistador? Well, if you're in Hong Kong it's easy, book yourself straight onto the Aqua Luna junk and cruise the harbour in serious style. Departing from both Central and Tsim Sha Tsui the junk runs daily from 13:30 to 22:30 and gives you unrivaled views of Hong Kong's harbour from a spectacular vantage point.

With its iconic deep red sails the Aqua Luna, a traditional Chinese junk, is an experience not to be missed. On arrival you're handed a complimentary glass of wine, beer or a soft drink, and invited to lie back on one of the comfy sofas and enjoy the views. There are more photo opps than you can shake a stick at and you're guaranteed to be the envy of all your friends once they see your snaps.

The junk was painstakingly built by an 80 year old craftsman and is known in Cantonese as Cheung Po Tsai. The eponymous Cheung Po Tsai was an infamous nineteenth century pirate who terrorised Hong Kong's waters. No pirates to be seen these days, but if you book yourself onto this water bound beauty you're guaranteed to feel like you're the one who's found all the treasure.

Book online here or call +852 2116 8821. Booking is essential.

A sheep worth following

The Black Sheep restaurant in sleepy Shek O is a Hong Kong favourite. Bursting at lunchtime with beach lovers, locals and hikers alike its pizzas, seafood, fresh globe artichokes and homemade lemonade are enough of an attraction to make the 30 minute journey from Central more than worthwhile.

Although you can feel much better about gorging on their gastronomic treats after having hiked the Dragon's Back or done a few lengths up and down Shek O beach, dinner at The Black Sheep (without any of the outdoor activities) is a real treat and much recommended.

Once the sun sets the restaurant is an even more relaxed affair than usual; lit up with bizarre planetary mobiles, glittering disco balls and overlooked by a temple it is a pocket of calm and tranquility, the like of which is usually only found on far flung beaches and in hard-to-reach havens.

There are far fewer diners in the evening, which means that the service is much faster and the staff more attentive. I even got a 20% discount off the food because the waitress recognised me as a regular. I'll definitely be flocking back.

The Black Sheep - G/F, 350 Shek O Village, Shek O. Tel: +852 2809 2021